Despite a darkening global mood, last Friday's presentation of Christian Dior's Spring/Summer 2002 ready-to-wear collection at Shanghai's Duomo Club was a showcase for the joy, optimism and romance of designer John Galliano.

The vocabulary of streetwear mixed with soft feminine chic, plus last season's burst of fantasy and fun, continues in a new contemporary, global and urban collection.

Galliano translates the universal language of "Street Chic" into soft pastels, and short and sexy dresses with asymmetrical hemlines. Unfinished and trailing lace and ribbon, they exude the image of a Parisian boudoir.

"John Galliano prefers a diversity of cultural influences. His inspirations - an around-the-world whirlwind - are a cultural mix," says Peter Cheung, Dior's regional communication and public relations manager. "Personally, I think it is a wonderful collection because it takes us on a journey around the world. The designs have drawn ethnic elements from many areas that include hip-hop Las Vegas, Elvis' Graceland, the streets of London, the French boudoir, Mexico, the Middle East and India."

Anita Huang, Dior's regional purchasing manager, defined the collection as colorful: "All kinds of light colors, like baby pink, lavender, lilac, emerald green, ivory, oyster white and lemon yellow, are the choices for spring, while coffee and spice colors are better suited for the summer."

One example is Dior's Gaucho look, the Latin Chiquita with eye-catching color, pairing swimwear with safari belts and high heels. The bold and colorful stripes of the prints are mixed and matched with Mexican floral prints, ethnic beading, tan leather and denim.

The collection also has something for athletic "fly girls." They can make a statement in giant baggy pants and hip-hugger jeans for day, matched with the corset T-shirt.

A logo renaissance, harking back to the 1970s, features the Dior logo everywhere on shirts, skirts, caps, bags and other accessories.

Of note is a suit of soft color, a Chinese floral-patterned dress showing the evolution of Galliano's Chinese aesthetic from 1993, when his Chinese collection featured bold green and red.

Cheung, who calls Shanghai "a cosmopolitan city in every respect, particularly in terms of fashion and top brands," adds that "Galliano has always been fascinated by China, although he hasn't been here yet. He would jump at the chance to come if the opportunity presented itself - perhaps an occasion like the coming Shanghai International Fashion Festival in April."

Says Huang, "We hope to mix Western and Eastern styles together, thus creating a unique design for the world. Dior's collection is both a window to the world for China - and a window into China for the world."

(Eastday.com January 23, 2002)