But ever since the leaders of Henan province decided to make tourism a pillar of the provincial economy, the dreary capital has manfully tried to step into its new role.

A coach-load of visiting journalists recently viewed its top attractions, including four flyovers and a number of new department stores. The city, which largely grew up around a vital railroad junction after 1949, has splashed out on a set of luxury hotels and, best of all a new, rather good museum. Finished two years ago, the museum is modelled on China's earliest astrological observatory tower.

(Eastday. com 10/20/2000)