Without exaggeration, it rose to about eight centimeters, however once getting through the top layers there were a lot of corn chips left over. More topping is recommended for the initial dish but it is also possible to supplement from the other filling options and side dishes.

Cantina Agave has an appealing supply dynamism with orders filled and replenished quickly from a busy kitchen but once food is delivered to table in its various spicy, tasty forms and the corn chips hit the dips, the relaxed Mexican environment kicks in.

Address: Cantina Agave, 291 Fumin Road,

Reservation: 6170 1310

In contrast, Citizen Cafe & Bar has been around for a while and is a favorite meeting place at all times of day and night.

On two floors of a narrow building in Jinxian Road, off Shaanxi Road, it's a very comfortable, relaxing drop-in joint where books and laptops sit on tables beside cocktails and snacks.

Downstairs is more conducive to taking your time while the upstairs area, which is quieter by dint of being away from street level, connotes more structured dining.

Food doesn't necessarily need to be taken but that's not to say the operators treat it as an afterthought. The wine and food menu is extensive and a credit to the small kitchen.

Right now the carols are playing, the Christmas tree is up and the environment, with its wall lamps and curtains, is a warm and friendly respite from the piercing wind.

French, American and Chinese languages pepper the air taking advantage of the post-4pm happy hour during which martinis are 35 yuan.

The spring chicken (85 yuan) is half a bird splayed on the plate, tender flesh for the most part but a little dry on the fringes and with an appealing, subtle saffron flavor. Served with a full, separate salad and a side of mashed potato (28 yuan) it was good value.

The salmon (120 yuan) was an exceptional fillet, long and on a bed of potato, breaking away at the touch of a knife. Order it again, every time. The Santa Rita Reserve sauvignon blanc from Chile (55 yuan per glass) is a reliable standby from a substantial wine, cocktails and liquers list.

Citizen Cafe & Bar is more of a relaxed lounge than a bar or cafe, an intimate speakeasy. It has perfected a welcoming, informal service style that sustains the drop-and-flop, meet-and-drink, sip-and-sup or leave-me-alone needs of customers.

Address: Citizen Cafe & Bar, 222 Jinxian Road, near Shaanxi Road

Reservation: 6258 1620

(Shanghai Daily December 15, 2008)