There's no doubting the appeal of Mexican-style food. Within a few weeks of opening, the Cantina Agave is consistently popular.

In a ground floor shop, Agave is one of five eateries to start up in the recently opened Mansion complex and, of them all, it is the most individual.

It's in a narrow room but its textured woods and fabrics and iconic cactus and sombreros leave no doubt as to the cuisine's lineage. The kitchen's at the back near the ordering area and there's a bar on the side that dispenses beers (Coronas 35 yuan/US$5.10), Mexican coffee (25 yuan) and tequila shots (35 yuan).

The atmosphere is casual and, like the food, uncomplicated and patrons variously gather with families, friends or laptops and take their time.

There's a choice of shells, fillings, dips and side dishes from which diners can concoct their own spread and keep on replenishing at will.

As a guide, the soft tacos (corn or flour tortillas) are 20 yuan for which diners can choose their fillings from the likes of Baja fish, chicken in salsa verde, carnitos pork, Machaca beef or chorizo and potato. Sides include refried beans, Spanish rice, tortilla chips and guacamole.

The quesadilla with cheese (35 yuan) and a filling (10 yuan) is a snack more than a meal. Consisting of five portions of heated, thin pitta bread filled with cheese and chicken slices, it is drizzled with a spicy taco sauce and comes with a small salad on the side, all very fresh, light and tasty.

In contrast, the machos nachos (70 yuan) lived up to its name, certainly in size. Served on a large plate, it consisted of a construction of a bed of corn chips over which was draped beef, guacamole, sour cream, sliced olives, green pepper pieces and melted cheese.