By Fei Lai

Chengdu, capital of southwestern China's Sichuan Province, is a city of wonderful history, surprises and delights. There're also some really great things to eat, writes Fei Lai.

It is said that Chengdu, capital of Sichuan Province in southwestern China, is a place where "once you have been, you will be reluctant to leave." After a recent visit, it is hard to disagree.

Once the capital of the ancient Shu Kingdom (221-263 AD), Chengdu not only preserves the past, but is also developing at rocket speed as a modern city of leisure.

It is home to many great attractions such as the Jinsha Site, a spectacular archeological find in 2001, Qingyang Palace and Chengdu Giant Panda Breeding and Research Base. And close by are the ancient Dujiangyan Irrigation System, Qingcheng Mountain, Leshan Giant Buddha and E'mei Mountain, all of them an intriguing mixture of culture and nature.

But a must-see is Wuhou Temple, especially for readers of the classic Chinese novel "Romance of the Three Kingdoms," translated into many languages.

In southwest downtown Chengdu, it is a shrine dedicated to Zhuge Liang, prime minister of the Shu Kingdom and one of the key characters in the novel. It is the only major cultural relic receiving state-level protection among all the relics related to the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280 AD).

Surrounded by red walls and set against luxuriant pines and cypress trees, the temple and surrounds cover 140,000 square meters. Majestic and solemn, it houses historic colored clay statues, inscribed stone tablets, calligraphy works, books, ovens, bells and drums.

"In his lifetime, Zhuge Liang used his wisdom to help Liu Bei, the first ruler of the Shu Kingdom, found the country and rule it. During his tenure, the kingdom enjoyed political stability and economic prosperity while local people lived peacefully," says local guide He Guangxu.

Many visitors go to the temple daily. Some make it their first destination because of its convenient location, while others want to begin their city visit by showing their respect for a great man.

Du Fu Thatched Cottage, the former residence of Du Fu, a great Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) poet renowned as a "poetic saint" by later generations, adds to the rich culture. Conveniently located in west downtown, it is often the second stop for tourists eager to view original copies of Du's poems and inspect his former home.

Undeniably, Chengdu is a place of abundance. Life is easygoing. People play cards under trees at noon and sip tea and chat with friends in the afternoons. Tea houses, in quiet spots away from the hustle and bustle, are numerous and no one is considered a slacker if they idle there for hours.

There are many other tasty reasons to fall crazily in love with Chengdu. Chili, snacks and hotpot are high on the list while no one should miss tasting famous Sichuan cuisine, one of the eight great cuisines of China.

I have always wondered why chili was so popular in Sichuan Province but after trying some of the spiciest food I have ever tasted in Chengdu - much spicier than anything I have tried in Shanghai - I came to understand locals' dependence on and enthusiasm for mouth-numbing, eye-watering chili.

"Chili is beneficial in keeping the body cool in summer and warm in winter," says He. "As Chengdu is a city with four distinct seasons and plenty of rainfall, chili can help protect us against illnesses brought by wet or damp conditions."

With food stalls and bars scattered in streets and lanes, it is hard to resist tasty Chengdu snacks such as fuqi feipian, which is also known as braised cow lungs, even though it is actually made from other parts of the beast, not lungs. The meat is stewed in soy sauce and then served with chili oil, pepper, sesame and peanuts.

Also popular is chuan chuan xiang, or ma la tang, a small version of hotpot in which vegetables, sausages, shrimp and anything else that's edible are cooked.

Then there are "cold noodles" that are cooked and left to cool before being served with bean sprouts and sauce, or eaten with shreds of chicken, pork and ham and long chao shou.

Literally meaning dragon wonton, long chao shou is very popular with its thin skin and tender pork stuffing, as is hotpot dining. The array of restaurants and stalls serving spicy hotpots is almost as numerous as the teahouses. Diners can choose from many varieties including hotpot with boiled mutton and beer duck - all spicy.

When night falls, Chengdu is transformed into a city of more charms. Ancient Jingli Street in the downtown area suggests Shanghai's Xintiandi with many shops, cafes, pubs and snack stalls in renovated wooden houses.

And for tourists who like to pamper themselves after a hard day's travel, Chi, The Spa at Shangri-La Hotel, Chengdu, is conveniently located in the city center.

Inspired by traditional Asian healing philosophy, all treatments are based on the principles of restoring balance and harmony to mind and body.

With elegant bath and herbal steam facilities, guests can indulge their senses, soothe their bodies and revitalize spirits.

Days and nights in Chengdu seem to pass all too quickly, such is the abundance of wonderful sights and attractions. It's enough to make you want to come back soon. I know I do.

(Shanghai Daily May 12, 2008)