At the Qianmen location of Quan Ju De Roast Duck Restaurant, owner Jiang Junxian claims the furnace fire has burned continuously since 1864. At 144 years, that outshines the flame of the modern Olympics, first held in Athens in 1896.

Not all of Beijing's restaurants can claim such longevity, but don't let the Games leave dining in the dust. The dining industry has long been a tough business, but the following food providers have won the hardest competition: the test of time.

Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been said that one of the best views in the capital is of the West Mountains from the Yinding Bridge. It was here, in 1848, that Ji Decai set up a mutton grilling stall, today's Kao Rou Ji, to capitalize upon the Manchus' carnivorous flair.

Today, the real value among Ji's offerings is the option to hire a boat (for an additional 180 yuan) and float along Qian Hai while eating. If meat-grilling skills don't pique your interest, Gong De Lin, Beijing's first vegetarian restaurant, has decades' of experience manipulating sucai. Founded in 1922, they're so good that the Buddhist 'imitation meats' hardly resemble the original ingredients, mostly tofu, mushrooms and root varieties.

Built in 1925, Fangshan, set atop Beihai Park's Jade Island, recreates Qing Emperor favorites and the sweet snacks Dowager Empress Cixi favored. Most of the Forbidden City's meals were prepared to please the eye, not the palate, since the Emperor was only permitted a diet limited to baked and boiled goods. However, Fangshan's current guests are free to indulge to their fill.

Laurence Brahm explained the Qing Emperor's dietary habits over dinner at his Red Capital Club, where a ten-year anniversary makes it the youngest restaurant among this list, but the style of food and design is a blast from the past. The specialty -- '1950s fusion' -- harkens back to the food eaten at Zhongnanhai, Party headquarters, during China's early years.

When it came time for government-level banquets, since officials 'didn't have their own [custom], it meant reaching back to ancient traditions.' Most of the dishes served are re-creations of those preferred by leaders (Deng and Mao among them), and often inspired by imperial traditions.

(China Daily August5, 2008)