"I don't really make any money out of the guidebook," he told me. "But it does pay for a couple of trips up to Yangshuo each year."

There are other places in China that arguably offer rock that's more varied and challenging, and settings that are more spectacular, particularly places in Yunnan, Sichuan, Tibet and Xinjiang. But Yangshuo is stealing the show thanks to its 20-year history of welcoming travelers. It's the most accessible destination in China for independent foreign travelers, offering accommodation across all ranges, an eclectic array of restaurants with English menus and English-speaking tourism service providers. It also has some sophisticated cafes and bars.

In terms of climbing, it now has all sports climbing routes, across all levels of difficulty, as well as unlimited traditional climbing possibilities to satiate the fussiest of professional climbers. At the lower end, for example, there is the rock face called The Wine Bottle, consisting of 20 routes for beginner and intermediate-level climbers.

There are classical and memorable climbs, particularly The Thumb, a karst mountain that's akin to a rocky pillar or pinnacle: It offers a 111-m-high, 5-pitch climb that rewards the climber with a view of hundreds of karst mountains rising in a fantasy landscape.

Top and above: Yangshuo is rising as a popular destination for rock-climbers from around the country. Photos by Colton Lindeman

Yangshuo rose to new heights in 2003 with the "discovery" of a cliff called White Mountain where 33 climbing routes have been charted. It's a cliff that's 60 m high and 200 m wide, and slants outwards as it rises, challenging even the most skillful and experienced climbers.

As rock climbing grows in popularity, so does the culture associated with it. Climbers feel a strong sense of belonging, and now there is a climber's caf and bar in Yangshuo town. It's run by China Climb, and it serves as a hangout where climbers can share stories, talk about the routes they like or dislike, and generally socialize. It's even got an artificial climbing wall.

"It's also the place where dedicated climbers can find information and climbing partners," says Dilks, the manager.

China Climb - whose customers have grown from less than 50 in 2004 to about 1,500 last year - caters mostly to students of international schools who visit on class-organized trips.