With the Forbidden City and Jingshan Park to its east, Zhong Nan
Hai (Central and South Seas) to its south, Beihai (North Sea) Park
is one of the oldest, largest and best-preserved ancient imperial
gardens in China located in the center of Beijing. This ancient
garden, with over 1,000 years' history, is not only a classic
combination of the grandiosity of the northern gardens and the
refinement of the southern gardens in China, but also a perfect
integration of magnificent imperial palaces and solemn religious
constructions.
History of Beihai Park
Beihai Park is said to be built according to a traditional Chinese
legend. The story is that once upon a time there were three magic
mountains called 'Penglai', 'Yingzhou' and 'Fangzhang' located to
the east of Bohai Bay (to the east of China). Gods in those
mountains had a kind of herbal medicine which would help humans
gain immortality.
Consequently, many emperors in the feudal age of China
constantly sought those mountains. For example, Emperor Qin
Shihuang, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty (221 - 206 B.C.),
wanted to live an eternal life and had sent people to look for the
magic mountains but they failed. Then at his palace, he dug a large
pool and piled up three earth hills in it to imitate the
circumstances described in the legend. Emperor Wudi, the fifth
emperor of the Western Han Dynasty (202 B.C. - 8 A.D.) did similar
things.
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It was believed that different mountain-water combinations in
ancient Chinese architecture led to totally different effects. So
from then on, almost every emperor during the succeeding dynasties
would build a royal garden with one-pool-with-three-hills' layout
as a fairyland near his palace. Beihai Park was surely built after
this traditional style: the water of Beihai (North Sea) with Zhong
Nan Hai (Central and South Seas) is the Taiye Pool; the Jade
Flowery (Qionghua) Islet, the island of the Circular City and the
Xishantai Island represent the three magic mountains.
Actually, Beihai Park was initially built in the Liao Dynasty
(916 - 1125) and was repaired and rebuilt in the following
dynasties including Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing (1115 - 1911). The
large-scale rebuilding in the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing
Dynasty (1644 - 1911) generally established the present scale and
pattern of Beihai Park. In 1925, the park was first opened to the
public, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over
the world every year.
Touring Beihai Park
Beihai Park covers an area of about 0.71 sq km (about 0.27
sq miles), more than half of which is taken up by the lake. In the
middle of the lake and on the central axis of the whole park lies
the Jade Flowery Islet, topped by the imposing White Dagoba which
is the landmark of Beihai Park. Besides the Jade Flowery Islet, the
park has four main scenic areas: the Eastern Shore Area, the
Northern Shore Area, the Botanical Garden and the Circular City
near the north gate. There are many famous and beautiful places you
should not miss when touring Beihai Park.
White Dagoba
On top of the Jade Flowery Islet, the White Dagoba was built in
1651 on the former site of the Palace in the Moon where Kublai Khan
received Marco Polo. At the suggestion of a famous Tibetan lama,
Emperor Shunzhi, the first emperor of the Qing Dynasty agreed to
build such a Tibetan dagoba to show his belief in Buddhism and his
desire for the unification among various Chinese ethnic groups. The
White Dagoba was destroyed in an earthquake and reconstructed
twice. Now, resting on a huge stone base, it stands 35.9 meters
(about 118 feet) high and is capped by two bronze umbrella-like
canopies, with 14 bronze bells hanging around them. Inside, the
dagoba holds the Buddhist Scriptures, the monk's mantle and alms
bowl and two pieces of Sarira. Since the White Dagoba is the
highest point in Beihai Park, it served as a vantage point with a
beautiful view of the whole park.
In front of the White Dagoba is the White Dagoba Temple. There are
several other buildings and halls you could visit if you have
enough time. These include Zhengjue Hall, the Bell and Drum Towers,
the Stone Tablets of 'Qiongdao Chunyin' (means the beautiful
scenery of the Jade Flowery Islet in spring; inscribed by Emperor
Qianlong of Qing Dynasty) etc, all scattered on the slope of the
Qionghua Islet.
Hao Pu Creek (Haopujian) Garden
After touring the Qionghua Islet, you can cross the Zhishan
Bridge to the Eastern Shore Scenic Area which has many independent
gardens within Beihai Park such as the Painted Boat (Huafang)
Studio and the Hao Pu Creek Garden.
Created in 1757, the Hao Pu Creek Garden is one of the best
gardens-within-gardens of the existing imperial gardens in China.
'Hao' and 'Pu' were the ancient names of two rivers in Anhui
Province. There is a story that goes like this: in the Warring
States Period (475 - 221 B.C.), Zhuangzi and Huizi (two famous
philosophers of ancient China) argued with each other on the bridge
over the Hao River. Zhuangzi said: 'How happy are the fish in the
river!' Huizi responded: 'You are not a fish. Then how can you know
whether the fish are happy or not?' Zhuangzi answered: 'You are not
me. Then how can you know that I don't know the happiness of the
fish?' This story inspired Emperor Qianlong to build the Hao Pu
Creek Garden to seek happiness and relaxation as free as fish in
the river. So the garden is designed for tranquility and happiness,
featuring a special mountain-water structure to give the impression
of a deep valley which gives seclusion from society.
Quiet Heart (Jingxin) Studio
After visiting the Eastern Shore Area, stepping westward, you
will be at the Northern Shore Area. Lying to the east of this area,
the Quiet Heart Studio is the most famous independent garden within
Beihai Park. It was initially built in Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644)
and enlarged in Qing Dynasty. Inside the studio, there are many
magnificent palaces, halls, pavilions, towers, corridors and
artificial hills, numerous odd-shaped porous rocks and stones, all
artistically arranged. During Qing Dynasty, some of the royal
members used to rest or study here.
Nine-Dragon Screen
To the northwest lies the well-known Nine-Dragon Screen, which
is the only screen having nine huge dragons on both sides among the
most famous three Nine-Dragon Screens in China (the other two are
respectively in the Forbidden City and Datong, Shanxi Province).
Built in 1756, the Nine-Dragon Screen is about 27 meters (about
88.6 feet) long, 6.65 meters (about 21.8 feet) high and 1.42 meters
(4.66 feet) thick. It is composed of 424 seven-color glazed tiles
that embossing the screen. There are nine huge coiling dragons on
each side of the screen and big or small dragons in different
postures decorating the two ends and the eaves, making a surprising
total of 635 dragons. Even after 200 years, the Nine-Dragon Screen
is still bright in color and complete in appearance, showing the
high techniques of Chinese arts and crafts in ancient times.
Five-Dragon Pavilions
To the southwest of the Nine-Dragon Screen lies the
Five-Dragon Pavilions - five connected pavilions with spires and
pointed upswept eaves. From a distance, they appear together like a
huge dragon. Built first in 1602 and repaired several times in Qing
Dynasty, these five pavilions, half over the water, stand on the
north bank of the lake opposite the Jade Flowery Islet. There are
many exquisite carvings and paintings on the girders and pillars of
the pavilions which make the Five-Dragon Pavilions a delightful
place for the royal members in ancient China to relax and
appreciate the natural beauty.
You can stand in the Five-Dragon Pavilions to see
the Jade Flowery Islet with the gleaming White Dagoba standing in
the exuberance of trees, flowers and various other plants. There
are also many other worthwhile places to visit around the
Five-Dragon Pavilions including the Heavenly King Hall, Chengguan
Hall and the Temple of Little Western Skies, a famous Buddhist
architecture.
Circular City
Finally you can visit the Circular City right at the
southwestern corner of Beihai Park. The city wall stands about 4.6
meters (about 15 feet) high and has a circumference of 276 meters
(about 906 feet). Among the various places to visit in the Circular
City including halls, towers and pavilions, the most important
construction is the Chengguang Hall which holds the extremely
precious white jade statue of Buddha introduced from Burma at the
end of Qing Dynasty. In front of the hall is a grand urn made of
variegated dark jade. With a diameter of 1.5 meters (about 4.9
feet), a circumference of 5 meters (about 16.4 feet), a height of
0.7 meters (about 2.3 feet) and a weighing 3.5 tons, the urn used
to be the vessel of Kublai Khan for storing wine.
While visiting these famous and interesting places in Beihai
Park, you could have a meal and rest in Fangshan Restaurant located
at the northern shore of the lake. This restaurant was started in
1925 by a cook who formerly worked in the Qing court, so the food
there is said to be of delicious imperial flavor.
Travel tips:
Entry ticket: 10 yuan; another 2 yuan for
Circular City and 10 yuan for White Pagoda.
Opening hours: 06:00 - 18:00;
Traffic: Bus No.s 5, 101, 103 or 109 to the front
gate of Beihai;
Bus No.s 13, 42, 105, 107, 111 or 118 to the back gate.
(China.org.cn travelchinaguide.com May 25, 2007)
