Punters who come to Cuvee can walk into the cellar and pick what they want prices are listed on the bottles themselves, and they can then decide if they wish to take it home or consume it on the premises.

If a whole bottle is too much, then aficionados can also select from one of 10 wines by the glass (five red, five white). The selection is updated regularly, and the wines see enough traffic for a fresh bottle to be opened regularly.

Ryan is also toying with the idea of installing an Enomatic machine for top cuvees by the glass. The machine, which costs nearly 50,000 yuan, keeps wine fresh by pumping the bottles full of inert argon gas. Colorless and odorless, it does not allow wine to react with oxygen and thus oxidize.

One of the features of the chic, slick bar is the 24 wine lockers in a temperature-controlled (air-conditioned) room for members to keep their drops on the premises. While the contents are not insured, the lockers are not intended for punters to store their very best but rather to put aside a small selection of special labels for sharing with the rest of Cuvee's wine-loving community.

Memberships are available at different levels. The basic package starts at 3,000 yuan and goes up to 20,000 yuan. These offer discounts on wines and corkage as well as invitations to members-only events.

Food is kept simple, with manager d'Allad plumping for large platters for sharing and a crafty cheese selection. A hot dish of the week will also be available.

He is also planning to bring in a Sunday brunch, with a simple antipasto buffet and one or two hot dishes such as omelettes to go with the choice of less run-of-the-mill bubblies.

Cuvee may not win prizes for being the most original design or concept, nor does it position itself to be ultra high-end. Instead, it looks to be a place for the wine-loving community to do just that - love wines.

Address: Room 103, Lane 528 Kangding Rd

Tel: 6288-1189

(Shanghai Daily November 13, 2008)