One really needs no excuse to down bubbly, and lots of it at that. While some of the most astute have established which brands they like better than others, there are many who still hardly spare any thought about what they chug. Oh, for shame.

Marketing for Champagne is thus as indispensable as it is for vodka. Already having wrestled control of the moniker to only refer to grapes grown in the French appellation (and rightly so), the major Champagne houses now can channel their energies on one-upping each other in the glamour stakes.

In recent years, there have been few houses more glamorous than Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. Carrie Bradshaw's bubbly of choice, this pinot noir-based wine with its iconic yellow profile has come to Xintiandi.

From now through to mid-November, the city's glitterati can unwind at the Clicquot terrace with a glass of the treasured nectar and bask in the adulation of envious onlookers.

Set up in the alfresco section of Justin Quek's Fountain, revelers can sip on a glass of Yellow Label non-vintage brut for 160 yuan (US$23) or a bottle for 960 yuan.

If the life of a fashionista leaves you a little puckish, tuck into the Clicquot aperitif set for 199 yuan which includes a glass of the Yellow label. Or try one of the vintage labels for that extra.

Just like naming a favorite song, it can be hard naming an especially favored wine picking a Champagne is tougher still.

There are serious Champagnes, and there are everyday sparklers and therein lies the beauty of Veuve Clicquot - it's fun, it's funky and it's out there, so popping a bottle is guaranteed to bring a bubbly time.

(Shanghai Daily October 20, 2008)