You'll be reminded of the ubiquity of chili in Sichuan cuisine by the peppery aroma that tickles the nostrils as you enter this stylish restaurant.

Spice Spirit attracts a young, affluent crowd that clearly doesn't mind the wait for a table-reserving ahead is advised, even on weeknights. This being a Sichuan restaurant, the mouth-numbing shuizhu yu (fish cooked in an oily, peppercorn-laden soup, from RMB 42/jin) is the must-order dish, and although the punch was somewhat muted, we recommend it highly.

The plentiful menu makes a respectful nod to Cantonese cuisine with a selection of dim sum, but the mediocre mini pork dumplings (RMB 8) we had reminded us to stick firmly to the great Sichuan dishes next time-and there will definitely be a next time.

1) Daily 11am-midnight. 3/F, Sky Plaza, Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District (8460 8558);

2) Daily 11am-10pm. 7/F, Grand Pacific Mall, 133 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District (8265 6688);

3) Daily 11am-10.30pm. West gate of Taiyang Yuan Xiaoqu, Dazhong Si, Haidian District (8211 9966)

(thatsbj.com May 26, 2008)