For those preferring a quiet retreat for conversation to the discord of disco bars or the chatter of cafes, Windmill Lounge at the end of Bai E Tan Bar Street is a pleasant Dutch treat. Taking its name from the neighbouring windmill that anchors this section of the bar street, this quaint three-story space offers rooftop seating, a comfy loft area with cushioned benches and two-story windows with a nice view of the river. The animal-print fabrics clash with the seashells displayed beneath the glass tabletops, but that's quickly forgotten once you see the clever miniature fish ponds hidden under each glass stairwell. Drink prices are cheaper than at most other places along Bai E Tan, averaging around 30 RMB. What's more, Thursday is Ladies' Night, which means a free drink for the women in attendance. Cheaper drinks, cozy atmosphere -- Windmill is a windfall for the quieter crowd.

Daily 8pm until late. No cards. D03 Bai E Tan Bar Street, Fangcun, at the west end of Bai E Tan Bar Street (81895273)

Casablanca

Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, Casablanca on Bai E Tan Bar Street isn't exactly the most spacious setting. Eschewing the desert chic that Humphrey Bogart favoured for a mod urban look -- dark blue and silver décor with blue floor lighting - the bar simply doesn't have enough room for what it aims to achieve. Legroom is at a premium, with any available floor space packed with tables and stools. Live music is performed nightly from 9pm, but the volume is pumped up too high, and the tunes crash and reverberate within the confines of the bar. Granted, there are a few private glass-walled rooms, and an oversized movie screen and flair bartenders (shared with Hot Biz next door) provide above-average entertainment, but the drink prices are above average as well at 48 RMB. Nevertheless, Casablanca has become one of the most popular watering holes on the new bar street, drawing a bit tamer crowd than neighbouring Hot Biz. This could the beginning of a beautiful friendship between Guangzhou's drinkers and the middle stretch of Bai E Tan.

Daily 6pm-3am. No cards. B05 Bai E Tan Bar Street, Fangcun, between Amigo and Hot Biz bars (81565613, 81565612)

Hot Biz

Things are certainly blazing at Hot Biz, one of the busiest hangouts on Bai E Tan Bar Street and the new in-place among college students and young adults yearning to be a part of Guangzhou's hot nightlife scene. After making their grand entrance through an archway of lights, customers find themselves in a sleek cosmopolitan setting, with abstract wall murals accented by a palette of dark blue, burgundy and aluminum. Loft ceilings and balcony seating create an ample sense of space, but you can reserve one of two glass-walled private rooms if you're in need of even more personal space. There's live music nightly at 9pm, but unfortunately the liquor tower display case at the bar obstructs some views of the stage. DJs spin between acts and flair bartenders offer entertainment of their own, but their conconctions and the accompanying snacks run a bit above average prices.

Daily 7pm-3am. No cards. B06 Bai E Tan Bar Street, Fangcun, next to Casablanca bar (8155 8613)

Club Cyber

Despite its off-the-beaten-path location, Club Cyber pulls a steady stream of customers in through its funhouse-like entrance. You'll feel like a kid at a carnival as you climb the metal grill staircase, pass the blinking lights arranged in the pattern of computer chips, wave to yourself as you walk through the mirrored landing and blink your way past huge starlights toward the bar area. The club itself is a fair size, with huge comfy crescent-shaped booths, tables and stools scattered around the bar and a small VIP area behind a white curtain. A wall-to-wall movie screen plays music videos, and a disco ball and good mix of (albeit loud) music -- from Enimem to Michael Jackson dance remixes to Chinese techno -- entice people to shake their thang, but sadly there's not adequate dance space. Club Cyber's hip crowd doesn't seem to mind. The lively atmosphere -- flair bartenders, flashing lights, smoke machine -- make up for the shortcomings and follows through on the entrance's promise of fun.

Daily 8pm-4am. No cards. 2/F, 568-572 Jie Fang Bei Lu, a short walk north of Zhongshan Wu Lu, near Gongyuanqian Subway Station (83196605, 83195505)

(Southcn.com January 13, 2003)