The trip through the three gorges usually starts from Chongqing, Sichuan. But it is also possible to board a boat at Yichang or Wuhan, Hubei, and go upstream; this trip will take longer but provides a better chance to view the magnificent gorges. It is also easier to obtain boat tickets for the upstream journey. We’ll describe the downstream trip, however, since that is the one most tourists take.

Passenger steamboats leave Chongqing at 7 a.m. each day and anchor at Wanxian at 6 a.m. the same day. They start sailing at 4 the next morning and enter the three gorges at about 8 a.m., arriving at Yichang at 4 in the afternoon.

Wanzhou City

This city is an important port on the northern bank of the Yangtze River, 327 kilometers from Chongqing. Nestling against a mountain and facing the river, Wanxian is well known for its natural beauty and such ancient sites as Liuhuan Pond, Fairy’s Bridge (Tianxianqiao), and the stone tablets on Western Hill. Master Li Bai’s Rock (Taiyan) on Western Hill is said to have been where the great Tang Dynasty poet Li Bai (701-762) once studied. Wanxian produces fur products, medicinal herbs, tea, and bamboo articles.

Baidi

Located at the entrance to Qutang Gorge on the northern bank of the Yangtze River in the east part of Fengjie County, this town was the birthplace of the ancient State of Bashu over 2,000 years ago. According to a local folk tale, when construction of the town began, a stream of white steam rose up from a well, like a white dragon flying up to heaven. The town was therefore named Baidi, meaning Heavenly White Dragon. During the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280), when Emperor Liu Bei of Shu retreated to Baidi after a disastrous defeat at the hands of the State of Wu, he fell fatally ill. Before his death, he entrusted state affairs and the guardianship of his son Liu Chan, the future emperor of Shu, to his prime minister, Zhuge Liang. This incident later became known as “entrusting the orphan at Baidi,” a historical event which was much described in Chinese literature.

Qutang Gorge

As you travel downstream, this is the first of the three gorges of the Yangtze River. Ninety-three kilometers long, it is flanked on both sides by steep mountain peaks and is often veiled by a thick mist on the river. The river suddenly narrows here to a width of 100 meters (150 meters at the widest point), and Qutang Gorge is therefore known as the “throat” between Sichuan and Hubei provinces. Sheer precipices on both sides form a colossal gate over the river, called Dragon Gate (Kuimen). The water roars through the gorge like galloping horses. To the north of the gorge there are several scenic spots including the town of Baidi, the Overhanging Monk Rock (Daoguaheshangshi), the Mengliang Ladder (Mengliangti), Bellows Gorge (Fengxiangxia), the Ancient Passageway (Guzhandao), and Pheonix Spring (Fenghuangquan).

Wuxia Gorge

In this gorge the zigzagging course of the river is sometimes obstructed by rocks, but the everchanging scenery is delightful. This gorge is flanked by oddly shaped mountain peaks, many of which are connected with beautiful legends. One of these is Fairy Peak (Shennüfeng), which looks like the silhouette of a beautiful nymph veiled in clouds. According to the legend, the nymph’s name was Yao Ji, the twenty-third daughter of the Queen Mother of the West. Out of sympathy for the boatmen who had to navigate the dangerous gorge, she decided to come and help them dredge the river. She stood by the river day and night until she finally turned into a peak. A temple was built on the hillside in memory of this kindhearted nymph.

Xiling Gorge

This gorge is known for its dangerous rapids, sharp turns, and numerous reefs and shoals. It consists of four smaller gorges called Military Books and Sword (Bingshubaojian), Bull’s Liver and Horse’s Lung (Niuganmafei), Kongling, and Lantern Shadow (Dengying). The recent construction of the Gezhouba water control project has helped calm the torrents but the charms of the scenery remain the same.

(china.org.cn)