Guilin and Yangshuo have long been top destinations on the backpacker's itinerary of China, but the idea of going to either of these sites while staying in a particular hotel was unheard of. That is all about to change.

Nestled amongst the karst and the cattle is China's very first member of the exclusive French Relais & Chateaux group, the Hotel of Modern Art. HOMA Relais & Chateaux is located in Yuzi ('Fool's') Paradise about an hour's drive from downtown Guilin on the way to the famous Yangshuo Rapids. Don't be fooled as you are driven by 4x4 from the airport down a dirt road through Dabu village (which lacks running water), five minutes through the rice paddies will land you in the lap of luxury.

Fool's Paradise was created by Taiwanese tycoon Tsao Rhy-Chang (who made his fortune in cemeteries) as his personal art utopia with the guiding principal of merging art with nature. The Yuzi Atelier is the largest art studio in Asia, specializing in sculpture (wood, stone, metal and bronze-work), print-making, pottery and glass blowing. For ten years, Yuzi served as Tsao's private retreat. Later, he started an artists' colony on the site and opened parts of the park to the public. The original hotel, HOMA Sutra, began operating in 2005.

Today, Yuzi still hosts rotating artists-in-residence and the culmination of more than a decade's worth of artistic creation, particularly the monumental sculptures, can be seen throughout the 534 hectares art park-with dramatic limestone peaks for a backdrop. Children are particularly entranced by popular Taiwanese cartoonist Jimmy's 'Pourquoi World', while parents may prefer a cocktail and a spin in the Rolls Royce-inspired golf carts. Relais & Chateaux, a name that is synonymous with refinement among discriminating travelers, formed an alliance with HOMA to create a smaller and even more luxurious hotel on the property to meet their strict standards for quality, advising on the design and renovation of the 46-room boutique conversion of the former artists' residence. Designed by notable Taiwanese architect Hsiau Jon-jen, the structure resembles two colliding grass-covered see-saws, at once blending seamlessly into and jutting out against the landscape. There are a variety of individually designed rooms and suites available, including duplexes and family rooms, all with outstanding views of either the art park or the karst topography. Designer Tracy Wen describes the style of HOMA as modern with Chinese accents, featuring aromatic camphor wood panels and a palette of caramel, cream and chartreuse. All of the rooms come with standard five-star facilities such as flat-screen TVs, CD/DVD, broadband Internet and a workstation, but what makes the rooms truly unique is the artwork, such as White Stone Angels by Guilin-native Redxing. The first floor features a day spa dedicated to facials, aromatherapy, massage and balneotherapy-we especially recommend the Thai massage.

If stalagmites and stalactites are your thing, the staff can arrange a private dinner, lunch or even cocktail party in one of the beautiful caves on the hotel grounds (warning: bat removal is not always possible!). Or head into the great Guilin outdoors with your nearest and dearest for a hotpot meal in a deserted field under a full moon with the mountain tops glistening and crickets singing. Whatever your whim, the new HOMA Relais & Chateaux offers an escape to rural China that is far from the backpacker's hostel as is possible this side of heaven. HOMA Relais & Chateaux: (077 3386 7888,www.homarc.com).

Rates from RMB 2,080 per night (including American breakfast)

(City Weekend January 23, 2008)