One of the grandest balls in old Shanghai took place at the Bai family villa in Fenyang Street before they decamped the Chinese mainland for Taiwan in 1949 at the end of the civil war.

Five decades on, Bai Xianyong, the family's eldest son returned to his hometown, a famous writer and was lauded at a dinner party in the villa's old ballroom.

He was happy to see that the villa, now a restaurant run by the German Paulaner Group, and the garden around it have largely retained their original looks.

"The house may have survived the 'cultural revolution' (1966-76) because it is too beautiful to be damaged," an ageing actor who invited Bai to the restaurant reportedly said.

The three-storey white house at 110 Fengyang Street, completed in 1930, gave full play to the elegance and ornate character of the French Renaissance style.

Its first owner, a French businessman sold it to Bai Chongxi, chief of staff of the army of the ruling Kuomintang in the 1940s.

Nicknamed "the white house," the villa was the most fancy among its neighbours on Fenyang Street, all of whom had a shared love of luxury which they were not shy about pursuing.

The other surviving 10 or more villas along the meandering street testify to the rapid rise of their owners in China's political scene and also the business world in the 1940s.

China's nouveau riche may have had a liking for Western architectural styles, but always stationed traditional stone lion guardians at their gates.

Turn west at the end of Fenyang Street and a succession of residences belonging to the country's early 20th century elite can be found.

The most modest of Dongping Road's villas lies at the end of street, where it meets Hengshan Road.

Standing somewhat unprepossessing in character to its neighbours, 9 Dongping Road is one of the most famous buildings in Shanghai. Its fame, or notoriety depending on the point of view, lies not in its architecture, rather its one-time occupants. Chiang Kai-shek, the then generalissimo, and his wife Soong Mei-ling made it their Shanghai home from 1927 to 1949, reportedly calling it the "Love Hut."

Today it houses classrooms of the Middle School Attached to Shanghai Conservatory of Music.

The neighboring houses all belonged to China's leading families in the early 20th century.

In one of them there is some say the most beautiful bar in Shanghai.

Called "Sasha's," it boasts a garden with fancies, flowers and guests enjoy the most professional service.

(Chian Daily May 31, 2005)