You may never notice them among the crowds in Beijing, thinking they are just part of the Chinese crowd, as some of them speak flawless putonghua (mandarin) -- even better than some Chinese.

But on the breezy night of June 22, when the South Korean soccer squad historically made its way to the semi-finals of the World Cup, thousands and thousands of Koreans came out of the woodwork in Beijing. With patriotic red jerseys on display the Koreans cheered joyously in bars and in university dormitories, as well as in public squares where outdoor screens were in place for the exciting tournament.

Among these frenzied Korean crowds were tourists and businessmen. But a large portion of them were students.

There have long been students from the Republic of Korea (ROK) pursuing knowledge in China, but this has become an exodus in recent years. According to the Embassy of the ROK to China, South Korean students have topped the list of international students in China in recent years, outnumbering even the Japanese.

Last year, more than 22,000 South Korean students were registered in universities and colleges across China.

The expansion is quite easy to observe. Korean restaurants and bars have opened up around most of the reputable universities in Beijing. A Korean community has sprouted near the Beijing Foreign Studies University with bars, bakeries, travel agencies and stores all displaying signs carrying Korean characters. And the shop assistants will warmly greet you with a Korean hello -- "Annyong."

Some students come here to obtain a degree. At Tsinghua University, one of the most prestigious universities in the country, South Korean undergraduates take courses from science disciplines to Chinese, English or law.

Others want to polish their knowledge of Chinese language and culture by taking certificate putonghua courses. A lot of universities now offer courses that last for six months, as well as short ones which last just a couple of weeks. They pull in overseas students by blending together language drills and lectures on Chinese culture and history, and even legal and tax systems.

Yang So-jung is among the many pilgrims who have flown all the way from Korea to study putonghua in China. The 22-year-old is a Chinese Studies major at Ewha University of Seoul. Four months ago she decided to defer her final year of study and enrolled in a four-month putonghua course offered by the University of International Business and Economics (UIBE) in Beijing.

Delaying her graduation means that she has given up a year's income. But the putonghua courses are filled with South Korean students who have made sacrifices like Yang.

"Mastery of putonghua is now a very helpful weapon for job seekers in South Korea, since most companies are doing business with China. They are looking for someone who can speak putonghua," said Yang. Improving her putonghua is her goal.

Booming Business

The Sino-South Korean diplomatic relations were established only in 1992. Thanks to China's robust opening-up and South Korea's incredible development in electronics, the automobile sectors, and many other money-spinning industries, the economic and trade cooperation between the two countries has seen admirable growth, with a brief stumble after the 1997 Asian economic turmoil.

Statistics from China's General Administration of Customs show that during the first half of 2001, ROK exported a total value of US$11.5 billion in goods to China, which is now its third biggest exporting market after the United States and Japan. China's World Trade Organization accession and the successful bid to host the 2008 Olympic Games further help to paint a rosy future that is attractive to corporation giants like Samsung and LG who are beefing up their investment in China.

A lot of transnational companies have set up branches in China, so they need employees who are capable of communicating with business partners and have hired personnel to work in China. For those who are planning to follow suit, putonghua speakers are important in paving the way to Chinese markets.

A myriad of tutorial centers teaching putonghua are now available in South Korea to quench people's thirst for what is now the second most popular foreign language after English.

Young kids to the elderly cram into classrooms. Universities and some companies also organize courses in putonghua training. But some people still prefer spending time living in China and find this the best way to learn and practice the language.

Practical Reasons

Like other putonghua learners, Yang believes in the tenet that "practice makes perfect."

"We make friends with Chinese students here and we chat with them. In our free time we read Chinese books and have some discussions. Watching TV is another way to practice listening."

When she reads out her favorite pop idols like Sammi Cheng and Ekin Cheng, you may be surprised by her grasp of Chinese pop culture.

Park Se-jun has been studying in China since 1999. After earning a degree in international trade in Shenyang, capital of Northeast China's Liaoning Province, he is now a master's student of international trade at UIBE.

"I love China, but it was my father who suggested that I study here. This is a great country, especially now that its economy is developing so fast," Park said.

"It is better to study subjects related to China here, as we will not know how the Chinese are thinking and how things are going on in the country otherwise. After studying international trade here, I have a better understanding of business and economics in China as well as in other countries."

When he first came here, Park could not understand a word his lecturers were saying. Park's experience is shared by many others. In China, most of the lectures are conducted in putonghua, which can be a major hurdle to overseas students who have no understanding of it.

But students from South Korea can perhaps pick up the language more easily. Centuries ago, when the Chinese language reached the Korean Peninsula through cultural and political exchanges, it underwent ongoing evolution and modification to become what is today's Korean. There is a certain degree of similarity between the two languages' pronunciation and semantics. The pupils are also required to learn over 1,000 Chinese characters in school.

South Korea has also been influenced by traditional Chinese culture, especially Confucianism.

Little Surprises

Students like Yang and Park may not experience the cultural contrast as vigorously as Westerners, but there are still differences that they find surprising.

"I am still not used to Chinese food, so I usually cook myself. The Koreans will not wear any shoes or slippers inside their homes, but the Chinese usually wear slippers at home," Yang was not used to this little household tradition, but she enjoys the friendly welcome of Chinese families.

"I was once taken to a Chinese friend's home. When we were having a dinner, all the members from her family added food to my bowl. They are much kinder to a guest than the Koreans."

When in Rome, you do as the Romans do. So does Yang.

"I was first confused by the traffic lights. I did not know when to cross the road as people and the vehicles didn't seem to follow the traffic lights. So, now I will only follow the local people, even if the red light is on."

A couple of years ago, South Korean pop culture began to capture the young hearts in China, and last month's football matches drove more Chinese crazy about this neighboring country. But the South Korean students and businessmen who choose to turn over a new page of their life in China remind us that a China mania is also going on in the ROK. When everyone is talking about globalization, the Chinese and South Koreans are practicing its dictum -- cultural exchange and economic cooperation.

(China Daily July 16, 2002)