Hidden away in a modern residential complex near Lotus Hill, Yangzhi Teahouse is haven for tea drinkers seeking respite from the hurly-burly of everyday life -- where attention to detail in decor and furnishings conjures up just the right sort of ambience for soaking away cares and woes in armchairs with hot cups of tea -- features include contemporary Chinese paintings and calligraphy, antique rustic furniture and bamboo blinds, as well as many curios, Buddha statues and Buddhist scripts.

Xin Dongxia, who runs the teahouse, attributes the design theme to her artistic husband. "He did all the design. We have used our own art collection to decorate the teahouse, and now our home is almost empty," said Xin.

But it's not just superficial decor -- one of the outstanding joys of the design of Yangzhi Teahouse is that you wouldn't think you were in a modern building complex, as by clever use of traditional Chinese gardens, patrons are assured eye-pleasing harmonious views from every angle. The main hall also creates a high degree of separation from the outside world, having a vaulted ceiling over four meters high, just like old houses in the countryside -- which also allows in more fresh air and creates a definite sense of freedom.

"My friends love to come and have tea with me," said Xin, "and they always enjoy the experience."

Of course, there's no use having the right setting if you don't have the right tea -- a score on which Yangzhi Teahouse gets full marks: besides the usual tea varieties, Xin and her husband also serve up a special type of green tea sought-after by tea lovers. "Our green tea comes from Sichuan, and though the type isn't famous, it has a great quality -- it has a lasting scent that stands being brewed ten times in one cup," Xin said.

However, Xin's favorite tea is mellow and smooth tasting pu-er, the tea of choice for discerning drinkers, which when well-aged commands princely sums. And thanks to Xin's devoted efforts, Yangzhi Teahouse makes the art of enjoying this choicest of teas accessible to all.

The very highest grade of pu'er tealeaves are exorbitantly expensive, especially when well-aged. To get around this financial obstacle to enjoying their favorite tea, and to fund their own love of pu'er, connoisseurs often collect and store their own pu'er tealeaves.

"The hot and humid climate in Shenzhen is good for the fermentation of pu'er tea, but you have to choose the best quality leaves first," said Xin, who keeps her stocks high in cabinets above two wood beams in he teahouse.

For every tea block, Xin has a story to tell about where and when she got them and their special characteristics. And she is always patient to teach newcomers how to prepare Chinese tea.

"Pu'er tea fans often bring their own tealeaves, and we spend a whole afternoon sampling pu'er made and stored in different years," said Xin.

Pu'er teas have huge differences in taste according to age. When young the tea is light and fragrant, and when old it gets thicker and bitter. So it needs time and experience to fully understand the cup of pu'er served to you -- something Xin is on hand to help with, to make sure you get the most out of your pu'er brew.

Drinking tea makes you hungry; the teahouse lays on snacks and simple dishes to match the elegance of its decor and teas. Xin says customer favorites include what could be Shenzhen's best Guilin rice noodle and hot-pot rice cooked with red meat or chicken. Prices for tea start at 30 yuan for a cup and go up to several hundred for a pot. Rooms for private parties, cards and mahjong are on the first floor; the second floor is cards and mahjong-free zone.

(Shenzhen Daily August 18, 2005)