"Have fun - there's nothing there, though!"

The warning from a fellow expat didn't exactly constitute a ringing endorsement for China's fourth largest city, Tianjin.

I was still mulling over plans for one of the easiest day trips from the capital when the train reached its destination, just 79 minutes after pulling out of Beijing Railway Station.

Securing accommodation wasn't as smooth as it might have been as I found myself regretting a) having left my foreigner residence permit behind; b) mentioning the fact I was a journalist; c) giving the impression I wanted to share a room with my girlfriend and d) not having a 800 yuan (US$96.83) deposit for a hotel room.

None of these things have been a problem during visits to other parts of China. But to cut a long story short (one which at one point saw me all set to return to Beijing in a spectacularly bad mood), it pays to be aware of local sensitivities.

Budget travellers tend to stay at either Tianjin University or Nankai University. You can get a room for upwards of 126 yuan/US$15 at Nankai and a hearty breakfast in the student cafeteria for 5 yuan/60 US cents.

Aside from the occasional cry of "Look! Look! A foreigner!" and the sort of staring action normally reserved for Elvis on his rare forays into public, I felt comfortable enough on bustling Guwenhua Jie (ancient culture street), browsing through everything from ancient scrolls to the latest death metal CDs.

Tianjin's taxi drivers are the city's unsung heroes. Ten yuan (US$1.2) gets you pretty much wherever you need to be within the central area (flag down is generally 5 yuan) and all six drivers I encountered went that proverbial extra mile to pass on useful tips. A city's people are always its greatest asset.

Seeking out the city's much-vaunted European architecture, a driver took me to Jiefang Lu where much of what I had read about Tianjin started to make sense.

A key trading port since the 19th century, whole streetscapes reflect the West's intense interest in the region. After the frenzied jostling of the tourist traps, a stroll in this area is a truly relaxing affair. You need to remind yourself from time to time that your are indeed in China and not France or Italy.

Guidebooks might direct you towards Guwan Shichang, an "antique" market. Don't bother: Compared to Beijing's Panjiayuan it's a bit of a damp squib. Most of the Mao memorabilia, kitsch keepsakes and general junk can be found anywhere.

If you want to do some serious shopping, head instead for Binjiang Dao where clapping shop assistants and ear-splitting techno music compete for spenders' attention.

The sight of Xikai Jiaotang, the Catholic church with unmissable twin onion domes, is guaranteed to prompt another double take in this city of contrasts.

Services are held on Sundays, when it is also possible to take a look inside. Yet even within this tranquil haven it's still possible to hear the echoes of commerce from the main street.

One true place to escape the bustle is the Kangzhen Jinianbei, the earthquake memorial to the estimated 240,000 people who died in the country's worst natural disaster on July 28, 1976.

The nearby city of Tangshan was essentially wiped out in a matter of minutes and Tianjin so seriously affected that it was closed to tourists for two years.

It would be a crime to leave Tianjin without an early morning visit to Shuishang Park (Water Park) where tough old codgers break the ice for an early morning swim and enthusiasts can enjoy themselves listening to traditional Chinese music.

Here you'll spot joggers going through their paces, pausing occasionally to yell from the bottom of their lungs. The reason was unclear to me, but it looked like a cathartic way to start the day.

Don't miss the eccentric pigeon-keeper with his 600-strong brood in one corner of the park. Pay one yuan and enjoy a Kodak moment of terror as they surround you.

A visit to the park was the best 5 yuan I've spent since arriving in China.

Tianjin is famous for Goubuli Baozi which can be eaten fast or savoured at a top class joint at 175 Xinhua Lu.

Night life? Try the hopelessly misnamed but superb Golden Sail Restaurant which alternates Nirvana with Destiny's Child (and why not?) and remember your favourite tipple when you come back the next day to start with. It can found on Nanjing Road.

You could also drown your sorrows across the road at the City Slicker Saloon which comes complete with swing doors, country and Western and all the Tex-Mex food you could want.

Coffee addicts will find what they need in the Hebei Road area (try Richmond Snack) and Xinhua Lu boasts some quirky clothes shops with lines you'll struggle to find in Beijing.

You might have to dig deep to find Tianjin's treasures but trust me, they're there to be uncovered.

Getting there: Trains throughout the day from Beijing Railway Station from 6:30 am until 7:40 pm. Cost: 30 yuan (US$3.61)

( China Daily March, 2002)