Mall restaurants often struggle with cookie-cutter spatial limitations and functional, if uninspiring, design. That said, Supreme Thai attempts to overcome these challenges with modern elements such as simple white tables and red privacy curtains.

In any case, the straightforward ambiance kept our attention focused on the menu. We enjoyed the fresh pomelo salad (RMB 49) and a satisfactory green curry with chicken (RMB 49), which made up with freshness what it lacked in spice. The highlight of the meal was the minced pork with basil (RMB 39). Indeed, it seems the kitchen excels in delivering localized versions of Thai favorites.

Well, why not? We went with the flow, no doubt encouraged by the eager staff and reasonably-priced Lindemans Chardonnay (RMB 28 per glass).

Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 176
Open: Daily 11am-2pm; 5-10pm.
Location: Infiniti Mall, 3/F, Room 303-304, 138 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Longmen Lu
Tel: 021-63756694

(That's Shanghai January 31, 2008)