The pelmet mini, just barely skimming the buttocks, has featured in just about every show - teamed with stilettos and bare legs that defy fashion is to feel London's notorious cold.

Elspeth Gibson, whose celebrity clientele includes Madonna, Elizabeth Hurley and Cate Blanchett, sent her models down the catwalk in a series of dreamy yet sophisticated gowns in both washed-out hues of pink and blue, and vibrant jades and peacock.

Her "Vision of Eden" collection featured plenty of her trademark beading with delicate, floaty dresses dripping with crystals and feathers.

But the collection also included pieces with a harder, sexier edge such a thigh-skimming black micro mini dress with long loose sleeves and a short, strapless cream lace sheath which hugged every curve.

Gibson's show, along with American Ben de Lisi's, was one of the few which has enjoyed a full house so far. Many of the major international press and buyers who fill the front rows and lend an air of glamour and buzz have yet to arrive in Britain after New York's Fashion Week.

Tomorrow's Stars

The biggest names - Julien MacDonald, Clements Ribeiro, Paul Smith and Katharine Hamnett - have yet to show.

London's schedule contains fewer internationally known designers than Paris, New York and Milan - relying instead on its reputation as the breeding ground of tomorrow's stars.

De Lisi, whose understated glamour has found favour with actresses such as Kate Winslet and Rachel Weisz, showed a softly stylish collection with a Moroccan feel for both men and women.

His collection of fluid pieces in patterned velvets, silks and chiffon mixed with smoky greys and scarlet, violet and black for a quietly sophisticated effect while tiny knife-pleats was used to devastating effect on the by now ubiquitous mini.

De Lisi said the collection was aimed at the woman who was "dressed up and likes it. She feels good because she looks great and doesn't care who knows it".

Gharani Strok attracted Christina Aguilera and Holly Valance with their "Gambler" collection, with large leaf-prints on bronze, gold and black.

Fragile eveningwear and gauzy dresses hugged every curve but Gharani Strok's skirts were the exception, with some even covering the knee. Maroon and purple were starred under wearable fur and leather coats.

Later, House of Jazz playfully lifted up the sternness of black by mixing it with psychedelic colors and black and white chequered-patterns, creating a collection that pleased especially the young generation.

Shirts in pink, red and blue were friskily draped or - to add a touch of elegance - transparent. The occasional white "House of Jazz" dove enhanced the collection's playfulness.

Swirling trousers and skirts were high-waisted and loosely-fitted and combined with black no-heel lace-up patent leather shoes, with models sporting big pinned-up hair.

(Shanghai Star February 22, 2003)