This season, designer Gabriele Strehle has attempted to continue with last season's over-sized theme in a very feminine way.

Inspired by a Far East atmosphere, Strehle showed a mostly black collection heavy with Japanese references such as kimono sleeves, torso-wrapping obi belts and rosy-toned prints that leavened the monochrome palette, showing up in loose blouses and fluid, knee-length dresses.

A generously cut black trench coat and feminine black satin dresses are good-looking pieces with appeal to serious fashion followers this season.

Inspired by the new Bohemian influence, the key silhouettes of BCBG MAX Azria's fall/winter 2002 Collection are layered, playing with new volumes and geometry, accented with fragile and sensual dresses and tunics.

Fringed hems and details create rhythmic distortions. Colours are orchestrated in dark tones, such as sable, olive and black accented with flashes of ultramarine.

Accessories are utilitarian with under-stated luxury highlighted by handbags in suede and furs draped across the body or wrapped around the waist and decorated with rivets, grommets and chains.

In terms of fabrics, the classic enduring textures are modernized, including wool gauze, fluid jerseys, washed and boiled woolens, crinkled chiffons, supple leather and fur.

The philosophical girl is tougher, yet still tender this season. In her wardrobe now is an eclectic mix of Chinese jackets and vests, grunge-influenced plaid, and a lot of tiny smock dresses.

The new addition of mens wear shirt stripes and distressed leather coats give this girl enough to wear when she wants to hang out with the cool gang, but she is still a sweetheart underneath with those signature empire-line coats and chiffon dresses, all still true to her good-girl nature.

(Shanghai Star December 2, 2002)