The classic garden salad (158 yuan/US$22.50) benefited nicely from the asparagus, doubly lending gravitas with a touch of bitterness and then letting the natural sweetness and citrus in the dish pick up the taste of the shellfish.

Next was an asparagus soup (78 yuan) which was just the right level of creaminess.

Italian fare is generally lighter than other continental cuisines, which makes it perfect for the spring. After the heavy stews and rich sauces of the winter, a change in weight on the palate is a welcome switch.

The white asparagus also lent itself to pasta dishes. One was a risotto (Congera's specialty/138 yuan) with black truffle and hit all the right notes - firm rice that matched the texture of the stalk, adequate creaminess and the heavenly aromas of the shaved fungus.

The other was sauteed spaghetti with clams and fresh tomato (138 yuan). Once more, the lightness of the white vegetable meant it did not clash with the seafood, which were suitably enhanced by the fruit.

While Congera, with his winsome personality and undeniable culinary skills, will be sorely missed by both the hotel and guests alike, gourmands can rest easy that he has left behind a legacy of tough standards and a mean kitchen to carry on his good work.

Address: 2/F, 88 Henan Road M.

Tel: 021-6335-1888

(Shanghai Daily April 7, 2008)