798 Art Zone: Where angelic babies meet plastic dinosaurs
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In 2001, the first foreigner, art book publisher Robert Bernell, moved his Timezone 8 Art Books bookshop and publishing office into what had been a factory canteen. After him, fashion designers and performance artists moved into the vast cathedral-like spaces, and then a wave of photographers, artists and designers followed.
Other foreigners also saw the potential in the space, including Tabata Yukihito of Tokyo Gallery, who was inspired to set up Beijing Tokyo Art Projects. The projects' 2002 opening exhibition "Beijing Afloat" attracted more than 1,000 people and spurred a turning point for 798 Art Zone – the place had finally made its mark as cool. Yet more photographers, designers and artists moved in, and businesses also started to flourish. Among them were fashionable cafes, trendy restaurants, wild bars and clubs.
Expensive galleries were set up alongside alternative design companies and publishing houses. The place became so popular that people were signing up to a waiting list to get in. Big name companies also started to get involved with events at 798 Art Zone. Among them have been the likes of Sony, Omega, Christian Dior, Royal Dutch Shell and Toyota. Even supermodel Cindy Crawford made an appearance at an event in Dashanzi. As a result, the old factory site turned into what some now call Beijing's "BoBo" (bourgeois-bohemian) community.
With gentrification, rents have rocketed and luxury cars on the streets of Dashanzi are a common sight. Some artists have criticized the area's shift away from art and towards showing off materialism, wealth and success. But there have been more daunting threats to the future of the area -- fear that the factories may eventually be demolished to make way for luxury apartments or office blocks.
Dashanzi is convenient for both the Capital Airport and downtown Beijing, and as China's real estate bubble has grown there have been increasing fears that the area will eventually be eyed for major development. Influential members of the art community and architects have lobbied the government, asking that the old factories be allowed to remain untouched. They have cited that such communities are vital if China is to become a major source of creative design instead of low value-added manufacturing.
Fortunately, the pressure seems to have paid off. At the end of 2007 it was decided that Dashanzi would continue as a special art zone, and today the area is thriving as more studios, galleries, restaurants et al open up and new artists continue to move in.
There are endless spaces to explore here, and it's easy to get lost or overwhelmed, and it certainly makes sense not to try and conquer 798 Art Zone in one day. It is an area that you can return to time and time again and discover something new, or find you have a new perspective on that silver statue of Christ that is overlooked by a naked sumo-like character. Five galleries recommended to me (and I didn't find them all) included Galleria Continua, Long March Space, The Iberia Centre, XYZ Gallery, UCCA and Happy Sheep Gallery, but you are bound to find favorites of your own, and maybe if you are of a particular artistic bent you may want to become a part of the action. Check out http://www.798district.com
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